I hate to say it, but wine is still not really combating my unhappiness. It is certainly nice to drink, but it doesn't transport me to another place as once it did. I need to get my medication sorted out.

Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1995, Pol Roger
A dense nose, dominated by Pinot. It has a really nice digestive biscuit character to it. Serious complexity here and it is only just starting to open up. This is a damned good wine.

Riesling Ried Loibenberg Smaragd 2002, Emmerich Knoll
Very light nose, hints of petrol and botrytis, maybe a touch of white pepper. It smells quite mature. Very light palate with huge acidity, clearly no malolactic fermentation here. There is a reasonable amount of fruit there. This is a perfectly pleasant drink, just lacks a bit of the wow-factor.

Gevrey-Chambertin "Mes Favorites" 2001, Domaine Alain Burguet
Lovely nose of good fruit and earthy complexity. It smells pretty ripe and fruity. There is some reasonable acid on the palate, but I think this is balanced by the density of fruit in the wine. It is quite long and reasonably complex. A very good village wine.

Hermitage "La Chapelle" 1995, Jaboulet
A polished, rounded nose of complex fruit, earth and voluptuous complexity. It smells big, ripe and very good. The palate is quite the mouthful with lots of fruit, great structure and a really long finish. This is a super wine which is in top condition to drink now. I'll last forever, though.

Hermitage 1995, J-L Chave
Ah, what a wonderful nose! Scented, perfumed and complex. There is a lot of fruit there, but it is soft and nicely mature. The palate is also soft and really has a lot of charm. It is extraordinarily long with great complexity. Really stylish too. This is aalso drinking very well now, but again will keep for a lot longer. This was generally preferred over the other Hermitage, and I agree this is truly great wine, but that was too.

Chateau Gillette Creme de Tete 1983
Chateau Gillette is a really weird wine, and it shows. The nose has hints of glue and acetone as well as botrytic fruit. It doesn't smell entirely nice, if I am honest. The palate is similarly weird, but it does have complexity and really good length. This is clearly a very special wine that needs to be judged according to different criteria than other Sauternes, but I am not sure I am much of a fan.

I was advised to decant this for a while. I did and it seems to have worked (to a degree).

Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru les Cras 1996, Domaine Roumier
A bright nose of fresh red fruit, raspberries and redcurrants. There is some earthy richness there as well. This shows a lot of harmony and elegance. When I first opened this the palate was very acidic, hard and charmless. However, with a couple of hours in a decanter the fruit has developed somewhat and it masks the acidity. Slightly. There is good fresh fruit there, but it is still a bit harsh.

I've signed up for Google AdSense, in the vain hope it'll earn me a few pennies toward a bottle of wine. I suppose this means I should now try to ditch my eccentric style and be really populist so I get lots of hits, but it just isn't going to happen.

Click on those links, boys and girls.

M. Cotat thinks his wines age for a long period of time; I've only ever had them young. I've always been impressed by their intellectual pleasure.

Sancerre "La Grande Cote" 2004, Francois Cotat
An intense, opulent nose of flowers, mango and minerality. This is hewn from the living rock of Sancerre. The nose may have real intensity, yet it seems tightly bound and waiting to flower. Let us be honest, there is a bit of sulphur there, too. The palate is a blazing light of brilliant intensity, illuminating the palate with minerals, fruit and life. This is a truly excellent wine, that will obviously repay cellaring. That being said, this is one arse of a good drink to have now.

Wine recommendations have been a bit thin on the ground in recent months, I've just been feeling rotten and even wondrous wine has not been perking me up. However, I am feeling slightly better today and so here are some good wines you might want to pick up.

Grande Année 1999, Bollinger: Streets ahead of the dreadful 1997, if not quite up to the 1996 in terms of quality. £49.50 from Magnum Fine Wines.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, Moss Wood: My favourite affordable Cabernet based wine. It is really quite fun and not in the slightest bit hard work. I had it last in November. £36 from the Wine Society.

Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru les Folatieres 2005, Alain Chavy: A gentle, refined, elegant white Burgundy that is very keenly priced. £23.50 from Magnum Fine Wines.

Chardonnay 2005, Moss Wood: If you are getting some of the excellent Cabernet why not have some of the Chardy as well? It is a reasonably complex and stylish wine, considering its scale and oakiness. Well worth the £19 from Jeroboams.

Riesling Kabinett Oberhauser Leistenberg 2005, Donnhoff: Something light and refreshing to drink over what is left of summer. Helmut Donnhoff is a wine god. £13.15 from Berry Bros. and Rudd.

I am just drinking another bottle of Chablis Grand Cru Bougros "Cote Bouguerots" 2000 from Fevre. I had this last in July. All I can really say to add to that note is how completely fantastic the wine is. It may be big and bold, but is also racy, elegant and exciting. It is perfectly mature and up for drinking now, not that it won't hang around. If you have any spare and don't know how to get rid of it do drop me an email. It is tits.

Now that is what a call a fine wine. Jean Boxler hits the spot once again even in this difficult vintage

Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg L31D 2003, Domaine Boxler
The nose explodes with an array of exciting, compelling flavours. There is peachy fruit there, along with fresh redcurrant, it has a rich minerality, and is extraordinarily complex. Yummy, smells good, I rather fancy. The palate has some breadth, but is kept lively by a sharp mineral tang and good acidity. The acid and the fruit persist on the finish to make this a very refreshing drink, despite all of its size and complexity. Tasty stuff. Long, stylish, complex and even tasty, what more could a loony ask for? Excellent.

No, it is not being expected to drink Claret; that appalls me.

In recent days the head of the Cheshire police force has been calling for an increase in the legal drinking age from 18 to 21 to help combat underage drinkers. Firstly, increasing the drinking age is a foolish idea, as it increases the view amongst those too young to drink that they are doing something special and "cool".

If one wants to encourage responsible drinking, surely it would be better that alcohol use be portrayed as a normal part of life for adults. Youth will not feel the need to go and get violently drunk if they do not think there is anything special about drinking alcohol.

Secondly, the idiot chief constable conveniently seems to have forgotten that those pesky drunken kids causing a problem in his area are already underage and so covered by existing law. Raising the legal age would only increase the number of underage drinkers and with it the burden of policing that he would have to carry.

Finally, it is unacceptable for the police to call for a change in the law like this, even vicariously. It is their job to enforce the law, not to dictate what laws they enforce.

Moreover, he has called for a ban on drinking in public places, which further takes drinking out of mainstream behaviour and penalises the majority of people with a responsible attitude to alcohol. Again such a change in the law would only make alcohol seem special to underage people and not encourage them to see it as a normal part of adult life.

It really irritated me that the ravings of this police officer have been reported entirely uncritically by the media. He has been given free-rein to speak without anyone pointing out the obvious flaws in his demands, which make him seem misguided about drinking culture at best and pernicious in his attempt to change the law at worst. He should get on with his job of policing the laws that exist and stop trying to abuse his position of authority to interfere with our lives.

Notes have been a bit thin on the ground of late, I am not feeling happy and even the mystic power of wine does little to cheer me. However, tonight we have popped one of the loveliest bottles of wine I've had in... oh... I period of time. I know I've had this many times before, but this is the best bottle that has been popped.

Meursault "Les Tillets" 2001, Domaine Roulot
The nose is really nutty and mineral. It has a very pleasing, round character, but it has real precision and purity of aromas on the nose. It is very stoney, but has some really good lemon fruit. The palate is a delight of pure flavours, precisely defined fruit, minerality and acidity. This is quite lovely, real depth of flavours and great length. It is really stylish too. This is a fine wine, and up for drinking (with a lot of pleasure) now. Top bunny.

This is quite the nicest bottle of white Burgundy I've had in, oh, a period of time. It is a beast, but is really elegant and refined.

Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2001, Paul Pernot et fils
A huge round nose of nuts and sweet fruit, this has odd hints of Frangelico it is so hazelnutty. It is also extraordinarily mineral and deeply complex. It has to be admitted, there is a bit of sulphur there. The palate is utterly brilliant: broad, nutty with plenty of fat, yet with precision, lively acidity and brilliant minerality. It is very long with great complexity. This is really stylish. A stunning wine that only really needs more time to shed the sulphur and become properly mature.

I only own one bottle of Claret, I hate the stuff. Red Bordeaux is simply dull unless it is fabulously expensive, and most of them are still crap. After this I am not going to buy another bottle of red Bordeaux.

Domaine de Chevalier 1995
Oh god, I fucking hate crappy fucking Claret. Yeah, yeah, it smells of blackcurrant and cedarwood, bit dirty. Piss boring. Palate dry and austere, not much fruit. Just what is the point? I really don't see it. I find this stuff actively unpleasant, and I feel ashamed of myself for having purchased it at a knock-down price eight-odd years ago.

I took this to my cellar in France on release and dragged it back on my way to the bin. It isn't bad at all.

Semillon 2000, Moss Wood
This smells amazingly oaky, but it has seen no new oak at all. It has some waxy, lanoline character as well. Not much in the way of fruit, it has to be said, but it still smells quite pleasing. The palate is big but not at all flabby. There is a bit of lemony fruit here, and it tastes vanilla-y as well. This is really quite nice, despite it not being a terribly conventional wine. Good result from the experiment.

Meusault les Tillets 2001, Roulot
Very good minerality on the nose, nice fruit, too. It has a very elegant, refined palate that is characterised by lemon fruit, acidity and minerality all in perfect harmony. This is quite a delicious wine.

Vintage Champagne 1996, Pol Roger
Bready. yeasty nose that shows hints of maturity. The palate is a lot more mature and less austere than last time I had it. It has a degree of astringency, which is quite nice. Whilst this has matured somewhat there is really no rush to drink this.

Cote-Rotie Cote Brune 1991, Gentaz-Dervieux
The nose has the elegance of a good, mature Cote-Rotie: there is nice fruit and earthiness. The palate has elegance too, but also the masculinity of Cote Brune. This is very complex and long, quite delicious, too. A real treat to drink.

Montebello 1996, Ridge
Very blackcurranty nose, full of fruit and bursting with life. It doesn't smell at all over-blown or too alcoholic. The palate has some pretty serious tannins and acidity, but I think there is enough fruit there to balance this. It is very long and there is some serious complexity there. Still youthful and no rush to drink. This is as good as US Cabernet gets. I still don't like Cabernet, though.

Hermitage La Chapelle 1988, Jaboulet
Slightly high-toned nose, it is a bit cheesy too. Not much fruit. Palate is a bit tough and dry and also lacks a bit of fruit. Reasonable length, though. It does seem a bit past it.

Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée St. Catherine l'Inedit! 2000, Domaine Weinbach
Lovely earthy nose, extremely mineral and complex. Very concentrated, it is big but lovely. The palate is confidently structured: lots of fruit, acid and alcohol. But it is all in perfect harmony. Very long, very complex. This is really tits, man.

Chateau Ormes de Pez 1986
Blackcurrant nose, cedarwood and earth. This smells like type claret. The palate is dry and hard, with little fruit and not much in the way of charm. I cannot stand it.

Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru 2004, Prince Florent de Merode
It is quite pale in colour. Smells a touch green, but has ripeness and weight. This bitter herb character seems very Corton to me. Again it has greenness on the palate, but a good degree of concentration. It has a degree of bitterness. It is OK, but nothing to write home about. With some air it lost some of its bitterness and gained a degree of charm. It is still nothing to write home about, though.

Hermitage 1994, J-L Chave
Herbal, meaty nose. Seems very ripe for a 94. Very complex, very earthy. Maybe the acidity it a touch high, but there is a lot of fresh fruit, real complexity and fabulous length. It is really tasty. This is clearly quite serious and drinking very well now.

The one producer I managed to visit on the abbreviated trip. All of the wines were barrel samples of 2006. Anne Gros commented that the 06 vintage had a lot of charm. I could see that, I also thought the wines were quite pure and refined.

Bourgogne Rouge Hautes Cotes de Nuits 2006
Prickly, slightly green nose. Nice fruit on the palate. For such a minor wine this has a degree of refinement. Nice.

Bourgogne Rouge 2006
Better fruit here, some blackberry. The palate is a bit spikey but again there is some nice fruit. Once again there seems to be a degree of refinement and charm with some reasonable weight for a Bourgogne Rouge. Very good for what it is.

Chambolle-Musigny Combe d'Orveau 2006
Very elegant fruit, raspberries. The palate is very elegant, too, with good harmony and plenty of charm, nice fruit and good acidity. A very pretty village wine.

Vosne-Romanée les Barreux 2006
A bit gassy. Nice blackberry fruit on the nose. Quite a complex palate with a good interplay between fruit, minerality and tannin. Good length and concentration, too. Very nice indeed.

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru le Grand Marpertui 2006
The nose explodes with exotic fruit and flowers. Very complex indeed. It is quite tannic, but the fruit is very elegant and refined. Lovely acidity. Great length. This is a really serious wine that is utterly delicious.

Richebourg Grand Cru 2006
An extra-ordinary nose of exotic fruit with hints of liquorice. It is so complex with real old vines concentration. The palate has a great texture and lovely, lovely fruit. It is very long and again shows real refinement and charm. This is truly fine wine.

Hautes Cotes de Nuitrs Blanc Cuvée Marine 2006
Very ripe pear fruit nose. Some weight to the palate. Acid not too high. Reasonably pretty.

Bourgogne Blanc 2006
A surprising amount of depth and concentration on the nose. Same on the palate, too. It has a tiny bit of residual sugar which makes it seem a touch fat. Nice, though.