# Wednesday, July 25, 2007

I only own one bottle of Claret, I hate the stuff. Red Bordeaux is simply dull unless it is fabulously expensive, and most of them are still crap. After this I am not going to buy another bottle of red Bordeaux.

Domaine de Chevalier 1995
Oh god, I fucking hate crappy fucking Claret. Yeah, yeah, it smells of blackcurrant and cedarwood, bit dirty. Piss boring. Palate dry and austere, not much fruit. Just what is the point? I really don't see it. I find this stuff actively unpleasant, and I feel ashamed of myself for having purchased it at a knock-down price eight-odd years ago.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007 8:35:50 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [3]  |  Trackback

I took this to my cellar in France on release and dragged it back on my way to the bin. It isn't bad at all.

Semillon 2000, Moss Wood
This smells amazingly oaky, but it has seen no new oak at all. It has some waxy, lanoline character as well. Not much in the way of fruit, it has to be said, but it still smells quite pleasing. The palate is big but not at all flabby. There is a bit of lemony fruit here, and it tastes vanilla-y as well. This is really quite nice, despite it not being a terribly conventional wine. Good result from the experiment.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007 7:54:02 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback

Meusault les Tillets 2001, Roulot
Very good minerality on the nose, nice fruit, too. It has a very elegant, refined palate that is characterised by lemon fruit, acidity and minerality all in perfect harmony. This is quite a delicious wine.

Vintage Champagne 1996, Pol Roger
Bready. yeasty nose that shows hints of maturity. The palate is a lot more mature and less austere than last time I had it. It has a degree of astringency, which is quite nice. Whilst this has matured somewhat there is really no rush to drink this.

Cote-Rotie Cote Brune 1991, Gentaz-Dervieux
The nose has the elegance of a good, mature Cote-Rotie: there is nice fruit and earthiness. The palate has elegance too, but also the masculinity of Cote Brune. This is very complex and long, quite delicious, too. A real treat to drink.

Montebello 1996, Ridge
Very blackcurranty nose, full of fruit and bursting with life. It doesn't smell at all over-blown or too alcoholic. The palate has some pretty serious tannins and acidity, but I think there is enough fruit there to balance this. It is very long and there is some serious complexity there. Still youthful and no rush to drink. This is as good as US Cabernet gets. I still don't like Cabernet, though.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:27:16 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback

Hermitage La Chapelle 1988, Jaboulet
Slightly high-toned nose, it is a bit cheesy too. Not much fruit. Palate is a bit tough and dry and also lacks a bit of fruit. Reasonable length, though. It does seem a bit past it.

Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée St. Catherine l'Inedit! 2000, Domaine Weinbach
Lovely earthy nose, extremely mineral and complex. Very concentrated, it is big but lovely. The palate is confidently structured: lots of fruit, acid and alcohol. But it is all in perfect harmony. Very long, very complex. This is really tits, man.

Chateau Ormes de Pez 1986
Blackcurrant nose, cedarwood and earth. This smells like type claret. The palate is dry and hard, with little fruit and not much in the way of charm. I cannot stand it.

Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru 2004, Prince Florent de Merode
It is quite pale in colour. Smells a touch green, but has ripeness and weight. This bitter herb character seems very Corton to me. Again it has greenness on the palate, but a good degree of concentration. It has a degree of bitterness. It is OK, but nothing to write home about. With some air it lost some of its bitterness and gained a degree of charm. It is still nothing to write home about, though.

Hermitage 1994, J-L Chave
Herbal, meaty nose. Seems very ripe for a 94. Very complex, very earthy. Maybe the acidity it a touch high, but there is a lot of fresh fruit, real complexity and fabulous length. It is really tasty. This is clearly quite serious and drinking very well now.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:25:32 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback

The one producer I managed to visit on the abbreviated trip. All of the wines were barrel samples of 2006. Anne Gros commented that the 06 vintage had a lot of charm. I could see that, I also thought the wines were quite pure and refined.

Bourgogne Rouge Hautes Cotes de Nuits 2006
Prickly, slightly green nose. Nice fruit on the palate. For such a minor wine this has a degree of refinement. Nice.

Bourgogne Rouge 2006
Better fruit here, some blackberry. The palate is a bit spikey but again there is some nice fruit. Once again there seems to be a degree of refinement and charm with some reasonable weight for a Bourgogne Rouge. Very good for what it is.

Chambolle-Musigny Combe d'Orveau 2006
Very elegant fruit, raspberries. The palate is very elegant, too, with good harmony and plenty of charm, nice fruit and good acidity. A very pretty village wine.

Vosne-Romanée les Barreux 2006
A bit gassy. Nice blackberry fruit on the nose. Quite a complex palate with a good interplay between fruit, minerality and tannin. Good length and concentration, too. Very nice indeed.

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru le Grand Marpertui 2006
The nose explodes with exotic fruit and flowers. Very complex indeed. It is quite tannic, but the fruit is very elegant and refined. Lovely acidity. Great length. This is a really serious wine that is utterly delicious.

Richebourg Grand Cru 2006
An extra-ordinary nose of exotic fruit with hints of liquorice. It is so complex with real old vines concentration. The palate has a great texture and lovely, lovely fruit. It is very long and again shows real refinement and charm. This is truly fine wine.

Hautes Cotes de Nuitrs Blanc Cuvée Marine 2006
Very ripe pear fruit nose. Some weight to the palate. Acid not too high. Reasonably pretty.

Bourgogne Blanc 2006
A surprising amount of depth and concentration on the nose. Same on the palate, too. It has a tiny bit of residual sugar which makes it seem a touch fat. Nice, though.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:23:17 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback

Well, the first two bottles we had by the pool. I wanted to see what Jacques thought of Bannockburn as Gary Farr, the winemaker of Bannockburn, has done some vintages at Dujac.

Riesling Grand Cru Pfersigberg Vieille Vigne 2001, Bruno Sorg
Very much like Cuvée Frédéric Emile on the nose. Ripe fruit and concentration but restrained. Very direct and linear. Lovely complexity, though. Very long. Quite delicious.

Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg L31D 2003, Boxler
Delicious nose of ripe citrus fruit and minerality. Real depth of concentration here. Very stylish. Palate is utterly delicious with lots of fruit and real length. Very tasty stuff; I love it.

Pinot Noir 2001, Bannockburn
Some nice earthiness to the pure red fruit nose. Seems a hint of stalkiness is there as well. Soft palate, quite mature. Reasonably tasty. I could easily guess this as minor Burgundy if I tried it blind.

Shiraz 2000, Bannockburn
Spicy, peppery nose with soft ripe fruit. Palate is warm and peppery, quite Rhone-y too. I rather like this.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:20:35 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback

A brilliant farmhouse eating establishment in the hills of the Hautes Cotes.

Monthelie 2004, Comte Lafon
Nice lemon fruit, some minerality. It is light and simple on the palate but perfectly drinkable. Nice enough.

Morgon 2006, Lapierre
Light strawberry fruit nose. Clarity of fruit on the nose and palate. Nice and refreshing. This is real type Beaujolais that is not trying to be anything else. Good.

Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux 1990, Comte Armand
Beautiful nose of red fruit and complex earthiness. Very stylish. The nose is quite delicious. The palate, on the other had, is too extracted and the alcohol is too high. It is good, but it could have been so much more.

Volnay-Santenots-du-Millieu 1990, Comte Lafon
There is a hint of cheese to the nose, but it basically shows pure red fruit of elegance and refinement, despite its obvious ripeness. The palate is extracted, but really silky and smooth. Very long, very complex, very stylish. Truly excellent.

Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2001, Domaine des Lambrays
Everyone knows I love this wine; it is the cat's arse.

Sancerre "Les Romains" 2005, Domaine Vacheron
Not very Sauvignon-y. Very mineral. A reasonable amount of green grassiness. Very mineral palate. Very long and complex, Quite stylish, too. This is top Sancerre.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:18:07 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback

I am out of the bin so, as promised, here are my brief notes from the aborted trip to France. On our first day we had:

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot 2001, Moreau et fils
Quite direct, some nice weight, though, but not terribly complex. It had been opened for a day.

Puligny-Montrachet 2000, Domaine Leflaive
Nice creamy nose, quite mineral. Palate has fresh acidity but the creamy texture of Leflaive. A very nice village Puligny.

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Champs-Gains 2001, Moreau et fils
Very direct, linear palate, acidity quite high and not much fat. It is ok, but hardly thrilling.

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Folatieres 2000, Paul Pernot
A very nutty, lemony nose, with a complex interplay of fruit, flowers and minerality. The palate has a lot to offer. It has weight, breadth, but with really good acidity. It is quite youthful. Fine and stylish, top bunny.

Hermitage 1996, J-L Chave
Lovely perfumed nose, quite Burgundian fruit to it. It is really earthy and complex. Very stylish nose: lovely. The palate is very voluptuous, round and giving. Quite delicious and fruity. This is really complex. Very long. Excellent wine, super top bunny.

Crozes-Hermitage 1996, Alain Graillot
Very peppery, spicy, plummy nose. Smells (and looks) quite young. Hints of cheap cologne. Plate is quite smooth with reasonable length and complexity. It is really very good.

Riesling Erdener Pralat Auslese Goldkapsel 1997, Dr Loosen
Very botrytic. Very forward on the nose. Quite heavy. Lacks a bit of zip, focus and purity. It is just a bit dull, really.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:15:41 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback
# Tuesday, July 24, 2007

I have risen! At least, I have escaped from the bin. Cheers, cheers for being an articulate loony. We celebrate with Chablis.

Chablis Grand Cru Grenouille 2002, J-P et B Droin
It has some honey and nuts but is really sulphury. That puts me off a bit, but the palate is reasonably tasty. Nice acidity, good fruit, a touch of astrigency (which is quite nice, really), and good length. Reasonable weight and minerality to it. It is pretty good, and for lips that have been in the bin for a week that'll do nicely.

Tuesday, July 24, 2007 7:14:52 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback
# Wednesday, July 18, 2007

My week's holiday in Burgundy has been cut short as I am so suicidal I need to be in the psychiatric ward as soon as possible. I am typing this on the train back into London, when I arrive it'll be straight to the loony bin. Those tasting notes I did write on my brief period there will have to wait until I am sane enough to be let out. I did have some very fine wines but even their power did not cheer me up enough to stay in Burgundy tasting.

Wednesday, July 18, 2007 9:15:44 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [2]  |  Trackback
# Friday, July 13, 2007

Hell'ś bells. What the hell is this beast in my glass? Made by the old Cape Mentelle winemaker.

3 Amigos Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvedre 2005, McHenry Hohnen Vintners

This is a booze-tastic horror of christmas pudding fruit and alcoholic craziness. It has a very fruity nose, a very soapy, soupy, fruity palate. Of all of the hideous, dull, wallpapery, boring powerhouse wines I've had, this is perhaps the most hideous, dull, wallpapery and boring.

Friday, July 13, 2007 6:46:29 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback

Tomorrow I will be off to Burgundy. I'll be visiting a few good places and will post musings on my return. But tonight:

Vosne-Romanée 1997, Rene Engel

A lovely soft old fruit nose, something slightly floral as well. It has a slightly herbal, meaty character, not unlike mature (clean) Bandol. The palate is a bit dry, but there is some reasonably complex fruit to it. It is by no means a fine wine, but is really an enjoyable drink. What what more could one ask from a ten-year old village wine from an early-drinking vintage?

Friday, July 13, 2007 6:34:25 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback
# Saturday, July 07, 2007

I haven't had a better string of Chablis than these last few Fevres in a period of time.

Chablis Grand Cru Bougros "Cote Bouguerots" 2000, Domaine William Fevre
This smells very much like flat Champagne, reasonably mature too, but these aromas are delicious. There is a real honey-ed character to it and some very ripe lemon fruit. It is very mineral, and quite confidently structured. On the palate, too. It has real size, but great minerality and areally nice acidity. Very long. Very complex. This is really stylish, too. Quite delicious.

Saturday, July 07, 2007 2:11:37 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [1]  |  Trackback
# Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Another day, another Savennières. This seems a lot less extreme than the Eric Morgat.

Savennières Chateau de Chamboureau "Cuvée d'Avant" 2004, Pierre Soulez
This has classic Savennières aromas, dampness, hair, dogs and it is moderately mineral. There is a hint of apple and raisin fruit, but mainly this smells of slightly weird things. It is not a thrilling nose, by any means. The palate has some good weight, and good acidity, but the weird flavours are neither nice nor weird enough to make this terribly interesting. If such a thing is possible, this is quite dull Savennières; wall-paper wine. It might be his most basic cuvée, but I expect more from Soulez.

Tuesday, July 03, 2007 7:02:27 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Disclaimer  |  Comments [0]  |  Trackback